Four days in Paris

The past few days have been a bit of a holiday comedown for me. This time last week, I was in beautiful Paris, sitting in a park by the Eiffel Tower, devouring a massive baguette (probably with mayo on my chin) whilst the locals strolled along with their dogs and groups of tourists sped ahead on segways.

Our long weekend away really was brilliant - we did pretty much everything you could possibly manage in the time we had! We saw all the usual sights, visited an abundance of museums and galleries, ventured to every corner of the city and spent our evenings on a cruise along the Seine and at a cabaret show a stone's throw from the Moulin Rouge.  Something which we found really worked in our favour is that if you're an EU citizen and aged between 18-26 then you get into a lot of the museums and galleries for free - just flash your ID and you're in, no questions asked!  Also, if you're in that age bracket and visiting over a weekend then the metro day tickets are vastly reduced in price, which was perfect for us because it meant that we could just hop on and hop off at whichever stops we fancied without having to worry about how many journeys we'd made. 

Whilst we were there we also took the opportunity to sample as many French delicacies as possible, ie. we ate a lot.  I'm all about a good pâtisserie and freshly-baked bread, and when there's an offering on literally every street it can be difficult to resist!  But hey, when in Paris, eat like a beast (or something similar). 

Having been lucky enough to spend four spectacularly jam-packed days in the French capital, I thought I'd share some of my favourite snaps from our time there.

The Returned

I think the last time I paid any real attention to a soundtrack from a TV programme was the mixes from The OC.  The music played a huge part in the programme and any episode which featured a performance at the Bait Shop was always a winner!  Fast forward a few years and I've found myself listening to another soundtrack to another programme I really enjoyed - Les Revenants or The Returned, a French thriller shown on Channel 4 which finished a few weeks ago.

The soundtrack is just by one band this time, Mogwai, and is perfect for those times when you want something chilled and heavily instrumental.  Apparently, the producers asked them to start writing the album before they began filming so that it could be used as inspiration and this definitely comes across - the haunting melodies do a lot to generate the atmosphere on screen and their impact is not lost when you're listening to the audio alone.

I really enjoyed the series and would highly recommend you give it a watch but if you're not one for subtitles (or dead French people...), you should definitely still listen to the soundtrack.  I, for one, am really looking forward to hearing what accompanies the next series.

Salted Caramel Cupcakes

There's something about the combination of sweet and savoury that I really love - give me salty sugared popcorn or a brie and cranberry sandwich and I'll be a very happy lady.  One of these kinds of contrasting flavours which seems to be quite in vogue at the moment is salted caramel.

A few months ago I was in the supermarket, probably supposed to be buying washing up liquid or something equally uninteresting, and ended up doing my usual trick of getting distracted by things I don't need. I found myself on the aisle where they have all the ice cream related bits and bobs, standing in front of the wafers and sprinkles and things with E-numbers that are really bad for you, but really really good for you at the same time.  I made an impulse purchase of a jar of salted caramel sauce (living life on the edge, I know), but this was quickly relegated to the back of the cupboard when I got home and forgotten about until I was inspired to do some baking by the newest addition to our household...drumroll please...a Kenwood Chef food mixer.

Now, this might not be exciting to you, but to me it's pretty special.  Having spent, I kid you not, 3 and a half hours making a red velvet birthday cake last weekend, the prospect of being able to shove the ingredients into a shiny new machine and whip up some cake batter and frosting in minutes without having to clean up after a cloud of icing sugar was very exciting!  So, I decided to put the long neglected jar of salted caramel sauce to good use and knock up a batch of cupcakes.

I followed the recipe from this website, adapted from a Hummingbird Bakery book, but used a quarter teaspoon of vanilla extract rather than the cocoa powder as I fancied having a plainer sponge to make the caramel the main flavour.  I also baked them on a lower temperature for slightly less time as our oven is a bit dodgy and seems to get ridiculously hot, very quickly.  Luckily, I've had enough practice now to know how to save things before they cross over to the wrong side of well done - just call me the oven-whisperer.

When it came to making the frosting, I used this sauce but if I did it again I'd probably boil up a can of condensed milk and add salt to make my own salted caramel. This one does taste really nice, but was a bit runny for me to put inside the cake or drizzle over the top like the recipe advises - I did try! It ended in a bit of a sticky disaster and more of a blotchy mess on top rather than the polished swirls on the Hummingbird version! I think if you had something slightly thicker it would be easier to work with. After a couple of failed attempts, I decided to go with a classic white finish. 

It's safe to say I'm no Mary Berry quite yet but hopefully, with enough practice and after another series of the Bake Off, I'll be icing like a pro!  Next time you can't decide whether you're craving something salty or sweet, why not give them a go?

Milling Around

This bank holiday weekend we made the most of the beautiful sunshine and took a day trip a little further afield in search of something different to do.  We ended up going to Quarry Bank Mill where the Channel 4 series (also called The Mill funnily enough…) was filmed.  I haven’t actually seen the programme, but I reckon it must have been a good bit of publicity for the place because there were loads of people there!  Whether it was that or the lovely weather and promise of a cream scone which drew people in, I’m not sure, but it certainly made for a bustling atmosphere.

First we had a wander around the mill itself and saw some of the machinery in action before having a tour around the Apprentice House, where some of the poor and orphaned children working in the mill lived.   Sometimes I find those kinds of guided tours a bit slow-paced but this one was actually very good and did give you a nice bit of background without bombarding you with a load of facts! I was slightly concerned that our tour guide, or ‘the woman in the bonnet’ as I’d like to call her, was going to pick on me and say something along the lines of ‘You must be about 15…how would you have felt working here at your age?’ and then I was going to have to either go along with it and inwardly resent ‘the woman in the bonnet’ for the rest of the tour, or awkwardly explain that I’m actually 22 despite my youthful charms.  This is the kind of paranoia that sets in when you’ve been ID’d multiple times in one bar on the same night…yes I needed to prove I’m over 18 to get in but why not humiliate me yet again when, God forbid, I order something other than a Fruit Shoot?! Not that I’m bitter or anything.  Anyway, the scenario with ‘the woman in the bonnet’ didn’t happen, you’ll be pleased to hear.

Even if you’re not really into history I’d still really recommend going to the mill just for the gorgeous surroundings.  There are acres of beautifully-kept gardens to stroll around and the river flowing through the estate makes for a really picturesque setting, something I wasn’t really expecting when I imagined the location of an industrial factory.  Before heading home, we had a little walk down to the weir.  It felt very Salmon Fishing in the Yemen, even though we were actually in Cheshire and there were no fish in sight.  But never mind, any opportunity to feel a bit more like Emily Blunt is always a good thing!

I’d highly recommend Quarry Bank Mill if you’re in the area and whether you’re a fan of the TV show, a history buff or just fancy a walk around some pretty countryside, it’s got something for everyone.  

The Place Beyond the Pines

I should probably start off by saying hello, it's been a while.  I could well have a justifiable excuse for why I haven't posted on here in quite some time, maybe I've been off seeking adventures, eating exotic fruit and working on my tan in some remote place out of the reach of all technology...but sadly I haven't. A) I've been here the whole time and B) the closest I've gotten to a tropical paradise was watching Leo DiCaprio becoming slightly unhinged in The Beach last night. But never mind! The important thing is I've taken that first step, dusted off my blogger password and I'm ready to ease myself back in with a topic we all know and love: Gosling.

Well actually, I'm going to talk about The Place Beyond the Pines, but let's be honest, it's all about Ryan and Bradley (yep, we're now on first name terms). I've been waiting for the film's DVD release for a good while and on Friday night, I settled down for the much-anticipated Gosling-Cooper sandwich. Sounds good already hey? 

In all seriousness, the film was great. I really enjoyed the director's last offering, Blue Valentine and for that reason was expecting good things. The first part of the film follows Luke Glanton (Gosling) and his struggle to provide for his new family.  We see the extreme lengths he's driven to in his mission to prove himself to the mother of his child, Eva Mendes, as well as his attempts to build a relationship with his new son. We know Ryan can do the whole brooding/violent/protective stunt driver thing from Drive. Swap the car for a motorbike, add a few tattoos, some daring skull-print pajama pants and a more sensitive, parental side and you're moving towards TPBTP. What I like about the beginning of the film is that it doesn't take very long before you're thrown into action-packed car chases - if, like me, your attention span is close to that of a goldfish, rest assured that you'll be hooked within the first 20 minutes.

Next, we're introduced to Cooper's character, an ambitious cop caught in the middle of a corrupt police system and facing struggles of his own, both relating to his work and to his own family, before the story shifts to the relationship between the two characters' sons. 

I won't talk about the plot in too much detail because I'm one of those people who gets really annoyed if someone spoils a film, but what I will say is that the movement between characters and generations, and the intertwining of story lines is really clever. It's engaging from beginning to end, with enough suspense to keep you on the edge of your seat and enough dimension behind the characters that, through exploring their motives and relationships, this becomes more than just another crime drama. It's unpredictable, fast-paced and all in all, a pretty brilliant film.

Need more Gosling in your life? Watch TPBTP. 

(and get this app: http://www.dailymail.co.uk/news/article-2394715/Need-Ryan-Gosling-life-Theres-app-that.html)

Bon Iver, Manchester, November 2012

A couple of months ago, I had the immense pleasure of seeing Bon Iver perform live in Manchester. This is a band whose rise to popularity has been exceptionally quick. Long gone are lead-man Justin Vernon’s solitary days spent cooped up in a log cabin in north-western Wisconsin, penning tracks for Bon Iver’s debut LP, For Emma Forever Ago, arguably the best thing to come out of a messy break up since that lyrical masterpiece, Eamon’s F**k It (I Don’t Want You Back). Fast-forward to 2012 and he is fronting a group of incredible multi-instrumentalists, performing to packed out arenas all over the world. It’s pretty impressive really. And he’s mates with Kanye West…10 extra points for the bearded wonder.

I wasn’t sure what to expect in terms of staging. Would they opt for Coldplay-esque magnitude with elaborate pyrotechnics, glow in the dark paint and a shower of confetti? I don’t think that’s really Vernon’s style, plus his elaborate facial hair might set on fire and that’s not good for anyone involved. Would they revert to their domicile roots, keeping it completely bare, stripped back and simple? The perfect medium, poised somewhere in between the two, is what they delivered. The set and lighting complemented the atmosphere perfectly rather than distracting from it. A hanging canopy of dishevelled material acted as a projection screen for swelling colours and patterns and, although there were candles, you’ll be pleased to know fire safety was adhered to at all times and Vernon left the stage with beard n’ tash in tact.

With a combination of tracks from their first EP and their latest, self-titled album, there was a balance between the personal and the spectacular, between intimacy and exhibition. From the electric opening notes of Perth, through militaristic rolling drums and Vernon’s signature falcetto to the feel-good acoustic finale of For Emma, backed by fan-fare trumpets and pretty much every voice in the stadium, the set list showcased the band’s incredible diversity in talent. I was even won over by their heartfelt rendition of Skinny Love, a song which I’ve struggled to listen to since it was ruined for me when Birdy covered it last year (thanks a lot for that, by the way). Thankfully, performed as part of their encore, I forgot about the horrific ordeal that was Birdy-gate and found myself reminded of the reasons why I loved the original. It was a kind of Kum Ba Yah, holding hands round a campfire moment, which somehow permeated to every corner of the vast space that was the arena. They definitely have a knack for that.

Since September, rumours have been circulating about the possible split of the band after Vernon aired his intention to ‘walk away from it for a while’ and allegedly, on the last show of their tour, he announced that they wouldn’t be performing together again any time soon. Whether he’s just taking a breather or this means the end of Bon Iver remains to be seen, but I’m just glad I was one of the lucky ones who had the opportunity to see their current line up in all its glory. Here’s hoping Justin opts for a couple of weeks retirement back in the Vernon-family log cabin before coming back fighting and better than ever.

Anna Karenina

On [Orange] Wednesday, I went to see Anna Karenina. I haven’t read the original Tolstoy novel, but I saw the trailer a while back and I’ve been looking forward to its release ever since. For all Keira Knightley irritates me sometimes, I liked her in Atonement and so I decided if she was under the direction of Joe Wright again, I should give her a chance to curb her pouting and concentrate on acting. When she does, I think she can be brilliant. Plus, more importantly, it looked as though the film was going to be visually spectacular and like nothing I’d ever seen before. Which is always good.

I wasn’t let down – the filming was pretty amazing. I don’t want to get into the realms of sounding really pretentious, but when you’ve spent the past two years studying Greek theatre modules in which the word ‘metatheatricality’ was used, on average, about seven times a lecture, it’s difficult not to think about the extraordinary use of sets. I’m not sure if ‘metatheatre’ is technically the right word as the film, being a film, isn’t a play…even though they do make it look like a play by shooting most of it in a dilapidated theatre. The point is, it constantly refers back to its status as a work of fiction. The sets are changed around right before your eyes, undermining the realism of the story. The movements are at times very dance-like and rehearsed and even the everyday process of putting on a coat is made into a ballet-style movement. And then there’s the all-important ‘viewer becoming the viewed’ thing. Or maybe it would be ‘viewed becoming the viewer, becoming the viewed’? I dunno. Basically, there comes a point where you’re watching Anna as she is watching an opera in a theatre, but then she becomes the object of gaze when the rest of the audience turn on her. It’s all very clever.

I also thought the costumes were pretty stunning, although Keira Knightley could wear a bin bag and make it look like couture Chanel. Poor Jude Law doesn’t come out of it looking so fresh – an epically receding hairline and drab clothing is not the best combination. It also seems that Aaron Taylor-Johnson’s blonde perm and dodgy tash was a good look in those days, but things change. To be fair, I was pleasantly surprised by his performance as Count Vronsky. I think he’s brilliant in Kick-Ass, but the most recent thing I saw him in was Chatroom – probably one of the worst films ever made. I suppose that’s not his fault, but by association he had gone down in my estimation. Now he’s redeemed himself again – he portrays his character with old-school charm and seems extremely mature and stately for his 22 years…I guess that goes with the territory of marrying a 45-year-old woman.

However, at the same time, I can’t help but resent his character for his part in Anna’s downfall. Yes, you can argue it was her own fault, and it was to an extent, but to be fair she did take some persuasion. She was reluctant to cheat on old baldy at first and when your husband shows basically no emotion it must be hard to ignore golden-haired man-gods who want a bit of hanky panky. Jude Law’s character, Karenin, is almost stoic in his attitudes – he’s described as a ‘saint’ and someone who, in his work as a statesman, is invaluable to Russia. He obviously has extremely high morals and respect for society’s rules, but he lacks passion and maybe this is what draws Anna to the Count. Even when he finds out about the affair, all Karenin can do is crack his knuckles and walk off - he hardly even seems angry. He’s a person who does the ‘right thing’ rather than following his heart, the total opposite of Anna.

So, Karenin gets all the sympathy and some would say rightly so. But spare a thought for Anna, basically shunned by society whilst Aaron Taylor-Johnson is allowed to swan off on his horse as if he wasn’t a part of the scandal. He is sensitive to her situation, but it’s not like he has Moaning Myrtle from Harry Potter popping up and having a massive go at him is it? Anna is the one who’s targeted. But I suppose that’s the whole point – to highlight the hypocrisy in attitudes at the time.

A theatre is a place of spectacle and of judgement. At the time, it was a place to watch drama, but also an opportunity to show your face in society, saying the right things and being seen with the right people. Performance was not solely limited to taking place on the stage, but was a part of the everyday life of the upper classes, and if you didn’t fit with the norms of this performance then you were shunned. I think that’s what Tolstoy highlighted in the novel, and Joe Wright brilliantly captured in his unique vision. I really enjoyed it and it's definitely worth a watch.